The Columbia River begins way up in the Canadian Rockies of British Columbia. From there, it flows northwest for roughly 90 miles before making a V-turn, heading nearly the same direction she came from.  She continued south through eastern British Columbia, meandering through central Washington until finally reaching Oregon.  Then all of a sudden, for reasons we can only speculate, she beelined it west, as if either wanting nothing to do with Oregon or perhaps she spotted the Columbia River Gorge, a yawning chasm carved by Ice Age floods where she felt an irresistible tug of nostalgia, echoing the steep canyon walls of her Rocky Mountain youth.

Once Ms. Columbia took her immediate right turn upon hitting Oregon, Interstate 84 latched onto her like a stage 5 clinger, caressing her cambers and clinging to her curves, copying her every contour like a chinese knockoff, hissing with traffic all the way to the Pacific ocean, nearly 300 miles later. 

Shot from Dog mountain hike

shot from Beacon Rock State Park

We followed Miss Colombia for about 166 miles before we deviated Southeast towards our first stop of the Trip, Morgan Lake. 

Aside from a resident flock of geese, we had the entire lake to ourselves. The only sounds were the whisper of wind threading through the pine needles overhead and the occasional HONK from our webbed foot neighbors.  

La Grande, Oregon

In 1861, a man named Benjamin Brown decided to lay some lumber and set roots in what is now called La Grande.   Back then, the valley was wild and wide open, just the kind of place to start fresh and it wasn’t long before a few more hearty souls joined Mr. Brown, drawn by the promise of new beginnings and elbow room. As the settlement grew, they put their heads together and put ole Mr. Brown on a pedestal, naming their settlement: “Brownsville.”

Mr. Benjamin Brown was said to be a kind man, always tipping his hat to the ladies and giving his fellow man what can be referred as “a gentle squeeze on the front side.”  It was rumored he had a fetish for beaver hide and had over 50 pairs of beaver pelt underwear to cozy his crotch.  But peace was not long in Brownsville.  Turned out, a neighboring settlement had also named their colony “Brownsville” after their first settler, Billy Brown.  This double-Brownsville situation threw the U.S. Postal Service into total disarray. Letters were getting misrouted, parcels lost, and tempers flared.   Eventually, word got all the way to none other than Mr. Abraham fucking Lincoln reading:

It hath been brought to mine attention that two towns, both bearing the name Brownsville, do lie in such close proximity as to sow great confusion upon the noble couriers of the United States Post. Verily, the poor beasts of burden, already taxed beyond reason, suffer grievously from the endless to-and-fro wrought by this lamentable disorder. Thus, it is incumbent upon one of you to adopt a new appellation forthwith.

Regrettably, I am unable to personally mediate this affair, being most thoroughly engaged in the twin labors of tending to my whiskers and abolishing fucking slavery by beating some confederate ass.

Godspeed in your deliberations.

Despite the presidential plea, neither Billy nor Benjamin were willing to yield.  A heated meeting ensued between the Brown’s along the dusty road connecting the settlements.  Voracious screams sent saliva into each others faces, forehead veins and erections bulged on the verge of rupture, at one point Billy yelled so hard that he shit himself and came at the same time, yet they continued arguing amidst the smell of shit.  

And then, as fate would have it, a stranger arrived.  A man atop a white stallion trotted up and paused beside the feuding Browns.  He wore a white mustache that was bushy enough to sweep a room and carried himself with the calm and reassurance of a true vagabond. “messieurs, comment pouvez-vous vous battre quand vous êtes entouré de beauté ? c'est…La Grande”.

The Brown’s blinked, “wait, what did you say?” uttered Benjamin 

“mes amis, comment pouvez-vous ressentir de la colère au milieu d'une telle beauté ?  c'est tout simplement La Grand” replied the man 

Benjamin ran his redlined his one horse powered stallion back to his colony, gathered the townsfolk in the square and shouted, “From this day forward, our home shall be known as La Grande!

And so it was.

La Grande’s downtown strip has kept its integrity over the years, remaining true, despite the juicy, low hanging fruit, big corporations use to seduce and abolish small towns, ripping out its soul and replacing it with just another place to live.  The strip had one of those movie cinemas where the awing juts out over the sidewalk in a fat, V-shaped fashion and was filled with business' such as “Baxter Auto Parts” “Claudson's Sew & Soak” “anderson’s leather goods and shoe repair” and “community Merchants”.   La Grande is a town where dirty pickup trucks and the local sheriff, John J, smith patrol the streets and take care of business, uphold the law and drink shitty Folgers coffee.   

Nestled in the heart of La Grande's historic downtown, we found JaxDog Café & Books. As we stepped inside, we knew right away this was the cozy, homey feeling spot we were looking for. Atop the counter, a display case of fresh baked goods, the day’s soups were handwritten on a chalkboard, bags of locally roasted coffee beans standing tall and proud.  

The walls were wooden shelves, loaded artfully with books ranging from sci-fy to exciting, non-fictionals about the life of a software engineer who never moved out of his parents, small town Nebraska basement.  A huge hole in the wall where you could watch the kitchen operate, wafting out free smells as cheese melted upon toasted deli sandos.  

Nicole ordered a quiche while i perused the walls, on the hunt for vintage classic literature novels and the elusive “The Curse Of Lono”, a book written by the godfather of gonzo, Dr. Thompson.  The kind with yellowing pages,  flipping the pages before my nose, taking in that sweet and musty whiff of history.  Edges slightly tattered, old name written on the first page in beautifully crafted cursive and if im lucky, a few words of wisdom.  It’s places like these that keep people going, places that are a unique cultivation of ones inner self, expressed and brought to life via the material world. 

The Wallowa’s

The night before our backpacking trip, we landed a sick spot right on Lake Wallowa, granting us a sneak peak view of our next day’s backpacking adventure.  Naturally, before we even started cooking the rice, we ran out of propane for the coleman stove and had the pleasure of instead holding the pot just above the Jetboil.  

The trailhead was nestled deep into the crotch of a valley, where it was invitingly moist and full of bacteria.  The road leading there was littered with “swiss chalet” vacation rentals and disneyland like amusements such as go karts, ice cream stands and horseback rides.  As we were making our final backpack preparations and tweaks, a clattering procession of bachelorette-party-esque, looking women on horseback approached.  The type of females overzealous with chocolate chip cookies, oversized sunglasses and TJ Max house decor, the kind that hung on their walls stating quotes like “home”, “thankful” and “grateful” written in that wispy font.  Their prematurely exhausted guide pulled the group to a halt right before the trail began and took inventory, asked if anybody had any last words or had to make a pee pee.  

The horses mane’s were already gleaming in sweat, glistening with various shades of mahogany and leather beneath the scorching sun.  The big boned crew riding the horses were sweating also, arguably more that the horses themselves, exhibiting darker shades of fabric in wide lines down the back of their shirts and huge half circles under their armpits.  They had flushed cheeks, plush and rosy, ready to pop like a blister, huffing and puffing from the effort it took to stay upright on a horse.  Squealing and oinking with laughter like little piggies.  As they began the ascent up the sharp slope, a loud squeal pierced the air as one of them tipped backwards and rolled off the horses back, bouncing off the ground like a flat basketball, squawking in distress. 

We followed the trail along a sharp sided valley, hugging its side about 100 feet above the West Fork Wallowa River, a roaring blur of snowmelt crashing over boulders with a frigid unforgivingness like an pulsing artery of the Wallowas.  The river’s voice was always with us, threading through the trees like a low, relentless rumble.  And at the clearings, those rare open mouths in the forest, when you could step out onto a sun-warmed boulder and look down unobstructed, it struck you fully.  White and roaring, a deep thundering presence and a reminder of that the Earth is always making magnificence even when no one is watching.

 Eventually the trail leveled out and brought us to a wide, green meadow, an unexpected gem in the middle of the forest. The grass was thick and lush, day dreaming about when it would grow long enough to dance in the breeze.  An army of trees stood guard along its edges, silent and stoic, watching over this little patch of green as if it was their baby.  We paused there for lunch, sunbathing on a boulder set deep in the ground like an iceberg, surrounded in a quiet that doesn’t ask for anything.  After a quick cat nap, the trail crossed Adams creek, a deceivingly fast-moving tributary that felt like needles stabbing any exposed skin as we crossed.  Then began the steady climb toward Ice Lake, the alpine lake we planned to circumnavigate before continuing higher.  Being so early in the season, ice lake was true to its name, ICE.   We tried to continue but were confronted with enough snow that every step was a piss-pour gamble between a knee high post hole or shin deep post hole.

Eventually, logic (and bloody shins) won out and we decided to call it, making camp next to the lake. It was a windless evening and any rustle of branches from a squirrel or chirp of bird got soaked up by the snow leaving an eerie, ear ringing silence, where the beat of your heart sounds like a giant drum.  

It was a windless evening, and any rustle of branches from a squirrel or chirp of a bird was swallowed by the snow, soaked up into the white until even sound itself seemed to vanish.  What remained was an eerie, ear-ringing silence, so complete that your heartbeat seemed to pierce your eardrums.

Stiff and half frozen, we woke up with frozen water bottles and a strong urge to get a move on.  The sun had already begun to warm the side of the valley we were descending and the melting snow ran in water rivulets that snaked across the trail.  Near the meadow, we found one of the bachelorettes from yesterdays brigade laying on the ground with her pants around her ankles and hairy poontang getting some much needed fresh air.  I gently prodded her with my foot and.  

“Hello” i ventured, again prodding her with my foot, this time with a little more gumption, causing her body to giggle.  

With the quick jerking motion of someone violently waking up, she rolled over, leaned on her elbow and stared at us with wide, feral eyes.  Her hair a tingle of tangles and pine needles, and her jelly belly, exposed beneath a torn shirt, protruded from her torso. She scratched it absentmindedly like a fat redneck drinking a PBR.   


“I was with the girls last night” she said dryly “when i smelled it.  I cant even describe it, but it took me away from myself.  It hijacked my actions and I followed it into the woods and there he was, Big Foot”

We waited.

“fermented fur, goat musk and wet bark, cold and molting leaves. Sweaty gooch, rank, divine, overripe prunes.  It was like smelling mother earths cooter after being creampied by Jupiter, Mars and Pluto.  I went to my knees and rubbed my face along his schlong, bare against my cheek.  He looked at me, and told me to grab it without saying anything.  Off we went, he led the way, i held his meat as if it were a leash and I an obedient dog.  We climbed the side of the mountain without taking a step, he led me into a cave.  There was another man there, half man half goat.  He introduced himself as Pan.  his cock hung limp from between his legs, swinging like the pendulum of eternity, hypnotizing me, drawing me closer.  He embraced me in his hairy arms and i felt big foot and Pan’s big penis against my backside at they embraced me from both slides.  in between the bellies of the beasts, their heart beats thumped like ancient drums.”  she finished, staring off vacantly, her eyes filled of remorse yet also reminiscent.     

She sat upright and crawled toward us, stopping just close enough for us to smell the distant tang of cedar, fire smoke, and gut rot. 

She looked off into the woods, smiling faintly, as if reliving a fond memory. 

And then, without warning, she let out a guttural grunt, scratched her stomach one last time, and scampered off loudly into the thicket, crashing through the branches with the force of a wild boar. The forest swallowed her whole, leaving only silence and once last whiff before the breeze wafted it away.

We didn’t say much as we walked through the valley, each of us listening to our own inner chatter accompanied by the hush of the roaring river down below.  Back at the car we unpacked, draped the dew-soaked tent over some low-hanging branches to dry in the sun and strategically repacked Ravie.  

After just a few days on the road, organisational began to from naturally, what items earned an easy access and what things could take a back seat.  While the wet things dried, we took time to bring thoughts into form with some ink and try our hand at the local frisbee golf course.

Hell’s Canyon

The road to Hells Canyon twisted and turned like it had lost its mind, like if you looked at the word HELL on a head full of high power blotter acid and the letters were squirming around like worms on a hot skillet.  The road kept doubling back on itself, switchbacking it, as they say.  Second guessing itself at every bend, doubling back like it forgot where it was going.

There was no cell service and we came across but one other car on the pot-hole lined road.  No surprise, because not many are tough enough and not scared as much as Nicole and I, because the road we were on led to HELLS CANYON, yep you heard that right,

 HELL 

aych-E-double hockey sticks

We were two baddies up to no good with a cooler full of spaghetti ingredients and a hunger for Italian.  

We found a quiet spot nestled in patch of lumbering fir and cooked dinner to the sound of flying insects.  In the fading light, we walked to the Hell Canyon view point, learning that it is actually the deepest in North America, yep, even deeper than the Grand Canyon.   We watched the light crawl up the other side while listening to the wind whip through the trees, whistle in our ears and dance with the alpine flowers.

Leslie’s Gulch

Washboard roads suck, traveling along one is no doubt a true test of patience, an endurance race.  There’s no way of beating them unless you got monster truck wheels.  If you drive slow, you get jerked around like a ragdoll and if you drive fast, it feels like you vehicle is going to fall apart, the vibrations gnawing at every bolt and connection.  A constant strain, especially if you have anything loose, like, say this…

After a long but beautiful six-hour haul from Hells Canyon, we turned off Highway 94 and onto what had looked to be a smooth dirt road, the kind you can just rip, leaving a plume of dust in your wake. Turned out to be the longest and most brutal 24.6 mile stretch of washboard road I’ve ever encountered, rattling me nearly into madness.  

But for the trucks owned by the handful of ranchers who live way out here, t’was no sweat, barreling past us from both directions, barely tapping the brakes, undoubtedly annoyed by the turd-ass slow tourists inching down their road, most likely muttering something like “nuther god damn tourist” while shaking their head side to side.  And I don’t blame them either. I’d cut my dick off and use it as an incredibly long straw before driving that damn road everyday.  It took us two full hours to drive that 24.6 miles.  I was fried when we finally pulled into camp.